Shari

Shari is the professional term for rice cooked for sushi and mixed with seasoned vinegar (awasezu or sushizu), a blend of vinegar, sugar, and salt.

Its formal name is “sumeshi (vinegared rice),” but in the sushi industry it is called shari because the rice grains are said to resemble śarīra, the relics of the Buddha.

It is considered as important as neta (fish), to the point that gourmands say, “Sushi is 80% shari.”

History

• From preserved food to cuisine: Narezushi, the precursor of sushi, preserved fish by fermenting it with rice. At the time, the rice merely aided fermentation and was not eaten.

• The birth of Edomae sushi: In the early 19th century, nigirizushi, which could be eaten immediately without waiting, was developed. This led to the creation of shari in its modern sense: rice seasoned on the spot by mixing it with vinegar.

• Changes in style: In the past, strongly acidic shari without sugar was predominant, but as sushi became popular, sweet shari with added sugar came into fashion. Recently, high-end sushi restaurants have been trending back toward the classic style, omitting sugar and using red vinegar.

Characteristics

Rice varieties

Rice suitable for shari should have an amylose content of approximately 18–21%, so that it is not excessively sticky and the grains retain their shape firmly.

Rather than freshly harvested new rice, aged rice that has lost an appropriate amount of moisture is used so that the seasoned vinegar penetrates well into the grains.

Balance of seasoned vinegar

• Red vinegar—akazu: Vinegar made by aging sake lees for a long period, characterized by its dark brown color and deep umami. It pairs well with fatty tuna and oily fish.

• White vinegar—komezu (rice vinegar): Characterized by a clean, sharp acidity, it is suitable for bringing out the naturally mild flavor of white-fleshed fish.

Temperature

The ideal temperature for shari is 36–37°C, close to human body temperature. At this temperature, the fat in the neta melts most readily between the rice grains, creating the best harmony.